This isn't an itinerary. It's just what the days are like here in July, once you've worked out how the Alentejo functions in summer.
Early
You wake with the birds, of which there are many, and have breakfast in the courtyard while there's still shade. By nine it's warm; by ten, properly hot.
It's the best hour of the day. Use it.
Mid-morning: the beach
Mourão river beach is five minutes by car. You cross the wooden boardwalk to the island and pick shade on the lawn — the parasols are free, which still surprises everyone.
Alqueva's water is warm in summer. There's a floating platform with a slide and diving tower, and an enclosed pool for smaller children.
Lunch
Two options: the beach club, which does toasted sandwiches and salads and lets you stay in a swimsuit; or back to the village for a proper Alentejo lunch — migas, stew, black pork. Suggestions →
Two till five: nothing
This isn't a suggestion, it's meteorology. In August it goes past 35°C and nothing happens outdoors.
This is what the courtyard pool is for. In, out, read in the shade of the cane canopy, sleep a bit. The house is cool inside — thick walls do that.
Late afternoon
When the sun drops, the village starts working again. You can climb Mourão castle for the plain from above, walk the centre, or go out to the beach boardwalk to watch the sun set over the water.
There's also the outdoor shower, which after a day like this is better than it sounds.
Dinner
Locally, in the village. Or, at least once, in Monsaraz — twenty minutes by car, with tables facing the lake and the village lit up once the coach parties have gone.
Another option, and often the best: dinner at home. Bread from the village bakery, cheese, cured ham, tomatoes, Alentejo wine, the courtyard table.
At night
Turn off the courtyard lights and wait twenty minutes, the time your eyes need.
Alqueva was the first destination in the world certified for star tourism. From here, from the courtyard, on a moonless night, you can see the Milky Way.
That's how the days end.
